Since we were unable to make a trip to The South Island we decided to explore more of The North Island. Hawkes Bay and specifically Napier came to mind as it was a three hour drive from Greytown and a completely new area of this island for us. We found an art deco short stay rental and took off for a few days. Napier is a city famous for its extensive Art Deco architecture, rebuilt after a devastating 1931 earthquake, earning it the nickname “Art Deco Capital of the world”. It has a sunny climate and a seaside esplanade.
Our view onto the main shopping street of Napier. It is very pedestrian friendly with a winding one way street for cars.Art deco mirror in the bedroom.No coffee maker, just instant coffee and tea. However Starbucks was a short walk so each morning Jim would go out and bring back our morning coffee which we enjoy having in bed as we catch up on the news.Lovely living room with a TV that we never turned on.Outdoor space with BBQ grill. There was also a laundry room off of this area that had a washer and separate dryer which is rare. New Zealanders like to hang their clothes out to dry in the fresh air which is almost sacred to them in every way.That balcony is off of our bedroom. We could access the unit through the Sandwich shop during opening hours but the access was otherwise off of a back alley. After settling in we walked two short blocks to Marine Parade which is the seaside esplanade.Miniature shell for performances.Looking back into town.There were a series of green spaces along the seaside promenade with spectacular flower beds. After walking along the esplanade we felt there was no need to go to the botanical garden as you can see in the flower photo dump that Sandy took below during our walks. The Esplanade also has lovely fountains and sculptures.Archway to the Esplanade from the town of Napier. The Marine Parade is lined with these Norfolk Pines.Our first full day we went tramping in Te Mata Park. These beautiful Pohutukawa trees marked the start of the trail.Te Mata park offers multiple tramping trails as well as separate mountain bike trails which occasionally cross paths.We decided on Karaka Wander trail. It was described as a wonderful wander through the varied landscapes of the upper parts of the park with mature trees, native bush and open grassland to dramatic cliffs and panoramic views. We followed the yellow markers of the 4km dirt path that was projected to take 1hour 15 mins.The trail started out shaded with vegetation but soon broke out into full sun with bare hillsides.
We seem to have a fascination with stiles. Video of a Sandy showing her agility as she crosses the stile. Not bad for an old lady pushing 80.More vegetation with a Redwood forest coming up.That’s the Redwood forest in the background.Redwoods can grow to over 100 meters in height. These trees planted in the 1920’s have attained a height of 40 meters.Karaka trees believed to be 200 years old.Out of the Redwood stand to the bare hillsides, full sun and wild beauty.Beautiful views of Hawkes Bay which is a whole region of New Zealand.The switchbacks on the trail made the ascent to the top more tolerable.More spectacular views as we climb up. You can see the South Pacific on the horizon.
We got back to our car and drove to the highest peak on the trail to take photos. The Giant Circuit trail ends here and it is a brutal 5k , 2.5 hour plus tramp which was more than we could do.St John’s Cathedral in Napier completed in 1965 with a modernistic design faces potential sale and redevelopment due to earthquake vulnerability which the church cannot afford to pay the renovation costs.One of the tours in Napier is a vintage car ride with a guide who gives you the history of the town and points out significant architecture.We were offered an assortment of art deco period clothing to put on for our ride. This is what we opted for despite the heat. As you know it’s all about “the look” right?Our vintage car was a Packard.Our guide Ruben was from the Netherlands. He came to New Zealand to work in the hospitality industry beginning work at a hotel in Napier many years ago.Our first stop was the Napier Theatre which had its beginnings in 1883 and is still in operation It has maintained much of its art deco style.Seating for 993. This stage has been hosting world class performances for decades.Art Deco domed ceilingNext stop was the Rothman’s Building that was renamed National Tobacco Company which is a testimony to the success of the tobacco industry in New Zealand in the early 20th century and to its founder Gerhard Husheer, considered to have been New Zealand’s foremost industrialist. The building is felt to be the jewel in Napiers architectural crown.Two gin and tonics please.The arched doorway entrance is adorned with roses, a nod to the Art Nouveau movement design,Brilliant idea and Sandy can attest to the fact that it really works.Our bedroom balcony looked down on the street with these bronze statues of a woman walking her dog on the sidewalk and being waved at by a little boy up on a pole.Another view of our bedroom balcony taken from the street. we were unable to find out any history of the building which dates from 1936.Queen Elizabeth visited Napier and stayed here when it was a hotel where she greeted people from the balcony.Hawks Bay has established itself as one of the great wine capitals of the world. These signs point out the other acknowledged capitals.Looks like a designated meeting spot.The beautiful tourquise waters of Hawks Bay.Black “sand” beach which is really rocks. the undertow is too dangerous for swimming and no life guard.These victorian homes circa 1895 are called the Six Sisters. They are a beloved landmark in Napier. From carpenters to hairdressers, the occupants of the houses were initially an assortment of Napier’s working class. In the 1980’s they went on to have a variety of commercial uses and still some residential.We shared a lovely breakfast of overnight oats and a mimosa for Sandy and coffee for Jim.As we left Napier we stopped at the Hawks Bay Farmer’s Market in Hastings.This community market is a friendly scene for locals to shop, eat and socialize, enhancing the downtown business district. It offers all sorts of local produce, cheese, wine, honey and artisanal goods. We bought some fresh corn to cook later and a jar of the famous Manuka Honey as a gift for a friend.
We had lunch at a winery and Jim gave some love to this beautiful horse that was there. The. above photo is sheep in a field which we took on our drive from Napier back to Greytown. The current ratio of sheep to people in New Zealand is roughly 4.5 sheep per person or 23.6 million sheep to 5.3 million people.
And so that ends our time in Napier. We decided if we ever moved to New Zealand Napier would be our first choice.
Our final night in New Zealand Helen invited Dierdre and Richard over for drinks and dinner.Saying goodby at the Wellington airport.3 and ½ hours to BrisbaneBeginning of a 14 hour flight to Dubai.Only one more flight, 14 hours to Boston.Only a two hour drive left to Newport.
The longest commute we have ever experienced. 49 hours door to door with three long sleeps. We arrived in Newport feeling quite fresh.
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