Adventures in Jerusalem

We have been in Israel over a month and have hardly been out of Tel Aviv.  There are centuries of history here just waiting to be explored and we are finally ready to head out looking for more adventure.  We sign up for a free tour billed as New Jerusalem Tour.  After an 8am sculling lesson we take the one hour express bus to Jerusalem’s central bus station.  We have done minimal research on this city but are ready to just feel our way around and explore.  We walk from the bus terminal heading for the Mehane Yehuda market which is popular with locals and tourists alike.  The markets more than 250 vendors sell fresh produce, fish, meat, nuts, spices, wines, liquor, clothing and more.  The color and bustle of the market place is accentuated by the vendors loudly calling out their prices.  There are also many restaurants and bars mingled among the stalls.  The market used to be heavily guarded because of several terrorist attacks during the second Intifada.  The last attack was in 2012.  We did not notice any security.

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Mehane Yehuda.
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Designer Yarmulkes.

We stopped for lunch at Lucy’s Ethiopian Restaurant.  We opened the front door and entered a very dimly lit room with only three people sitting at tables with no apparent wait staff.  We chose our own table and waited.  Someone, presumably the chef and waiter, finally came and asked for our order.  No menu, just vegetarian or beef.  We opted for vegetarian.  While waiting for food Jim got up and helped himself to a couple of Ethiopian beers and opened them with a bottle opener sitting on the bar.  The food was good but we have had better in Ethiopia and even in Boston.

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Lunch at Lucys.

After lunch we had another hour to wander the city which we found to be surprisingly beautiful with a modern overlay on very old buildings.  In contrast to Tel Aviv which is so new and utilitarian, Jerusalem is very old with a much more European feel.

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We met up with our tour group at the Jaffa Gate and discovered to our surprise that this was going to be a tour of the old city.  Oh well, every time we go out it turns into an adventure.  Our guide is Allan and when he starts to talk he has a Scottish accent.  He is wearing a Yarmulke though and not a kilt so it should be an informative tour.

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After a brief introduction we proceeded through the Jaffa gate and into the old Holy City where we visited the Jewish, Armenian, Christian and Muslim quarters.  Everything is very old with the exception of the Jewish quarter which has mostly been rebuilt since 1967.

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New Jewish quarter on the left and old Armenian quarter on the right.

It was abandoned after the war of independence in 1948 and then resettled and restored after the six day war in 1967.  The restoration and subsequent archaeological excavations exposed artifacts and structures that date back 27 centuries.

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Excavation of the old Roman market built by Hadrian.
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Artists depiction of the Roman market. Note the bottom right connecting ancient to modern.

The population of this quarter is almost entirely religious, split between orthodox and ultra-orthodox in their black frock coats and top hats.  The highlights of this 2.5 hour tour was viewing the western wall, aka wailing wall, walking through the Arab shuk and viewing the church of the Holy Sepulcher.  While viewing the western wall we were also amid a group of people setting up for a surprise marriage proposal.

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Western wall, men on the left and women on the right.
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We watched this go from Marey to marry em to the above.

Going through the shuk was very reminiscent of the Grand Bazaar in Istanbul.

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Arab Shuk or market.
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Not what we expected to see in the Holy City.

While standing in front of the Church of the Holy Sepulcher in a tiny plaza we were surprised to have a tractor and trailer drive slowly into the crowd and on into the church, part of ongoing renovations.

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Church of the Holy Sepulcher supposedly built on the site of the crucifixion, Golgotha.
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This tractor drove right through the crowd and into the church door visible in the picture above.

18 responses to “Adventures in Jerusalem”

  1. Kathleen von Pohle Avatar
    Kathleen von Pohle

    So much history rebuilt up on Hadrian. Truly amazing. Love the green tractor on ‘sacred grounds’ or do they consider it sacred? I do so enjoy the mix of histories.

  2. Jennifer Braverman Avatar
    Jennifer Braverman

    I am finally catching up on all of your wonderful posts! Visiting Jerusalem is on my bucket list for sure. And now, Israel in general. I have heard that the Israeli people are very warm. I’m thoroughly enjoying reading about your adventures! Thank you for sharing your adventures!

  3. Love every bit of the adventure. You write so well. And thanks for my birthday card, from Israel!

  4. I loved Ginny’s suggestion of entering the amazing Race so I looked up the requirements to apply. You only have to be 21, have a valid passport and drivers license. However they want a video telling them the positives and negatives of your relationship. (they love “banter”). So you two are out. I see only positive things in you both and in your relationship! Thanks for sharing your wonderful adventure.

  5. I spent so many wondrous
    hours in the old city, glad you’re enjoying it. Do walk the walls.

    1. We are not sure what you mean by “walk the walls”.

  6. You 2 are having too much fun. Stop! I wish we could come the stars do not seemed to be lined up.

  7. You two are having too much fun. Stop. I wish we could visit but I don’t think the stars are aligned.

    1. Who needs stars, it only takes time and money.

  8. Dr. & Mrs. Steen, the quality of your photography is really good. What sort of camera are you using??? We are thoroughly enjoying traveling vicariously through you guys!

    Love,

    Frank & Susan

    1. Dr. & Mrs. Artress,
      So glad that you are enjoying the travel. The camera that we use is Sandy’s iPhone 6S.

  9. Guys I am enjoying Israel with you!! Wow I had no idea of the richness of it. Some of those buildings look straight out of Europe. What’s the weather like? We had snow last night but it is 40 today!!! Love you

    1. So glad that you are enjoying the ride. Wish that you could have made it over here to enjoy it with us. Jerusalem does have a European feel with beautiful old buildings. Weather is wild. We have had a few Mediterranean storms with driving rains and 50mph winds and then a few weeks of very calm seas and low 70’s during the day. Had another stormy weekend with a wild sea, high winds and rain. Coming week looks as good as yours in Boston.

  10. Love this history lesson………..the Old City and markets are charming….something to discover at each corner…..who knew how to write Patriots in Hebrew???

    1. This whole country is amazing. Jerusalem is full of surprises. We are looking forward to touring with the gang. We will definitely miss you though.

  11. Looks like another great adventure for you two! Keep blogging!

  12. Ed & I really enjoy your adventures. Have you consider applimg to the show The Amazing Race”. You two are able to quickly assimilate to your surroundings and are physically fit to take on any challenges.

    1. Thanks for the compliment but they probably have an age limit at least 20 years younger than we are.

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