Ciudad de Mexico or Mexico City in English is where we landed on January 12.  We had planned on Seville Spain but had outstayed our welcome in the Schengen area of the EU.  As Americans we are allowed 90 days in the Schengen area and then we have to be out for 90 days.  We had hoped to acquire a special visa from Spain allowing us unlimited time there but they informed us that we had to apply for non-employed resident status which was much too complicated.  We were quite disappointed as we had already booked our apartment and flights and some friends had already booked their flights.  Our friends Bill and Katiti will now be going to Seville without us.  Our initial shock and disappointment lasted about 20 hours when after a lot of discussion and research Jim got us all excited about CDMX.  Our friends and family have been either delighted or horrified with our choice.  We arrived here at 7pm, whizzed through passport control and then had to wait almost an hour for our last bag which was literally the last bag off the plane.  So much for the large priority tag.

Very comfortable in business but why is my bag the last one off?

Our Airbnb host, Hugo, and his mother, Cecelia, met us at the airport and took us on a little tour of our neighborhood, even stopping by a grocery store so that we could stock up on essentials.  They then spent at least an hour orienting us to this high tech apartment, not leaving until just before midnight.  We have had such great hosts in Tel Aviv, Stockholm, Rome and now here in Mexico City.  All of the other hosts have been corporate rentals with excellent service also.  Our home here is essentially two separate apartments on the fifth floor and penthouse.  There are two separate exterior entrances and also an interior communicating door.  We are booking up fast so if you are interested in a winter getaway you better get your request in ASAP.

Guest bedroom with a private deck.
Guest bath.
Penthouse outdoor kitchen with meat searer, grill, sideburner and everything else we will ever need.
Outdoor deck, living room and kitchen with the covering retracted.
Jacuzzi for two in the bedroom with curved Samsung smart TV that swivels almost 360º.

So we came here with no expectations, a little fear and a lot of anticipation.  We have been here for seven days and as usual the first three days were spent just nesting, shopping, re-arranging furniture and getting to know the immediate neighborhood.

We also walked over three miles of gritty industrial streets to Walmart.
Never expected to be shopping in Walmart in Mexico City.

We are located in the Bohemian La Condesa district which is treelined streets with sidewalk restaurants, cafes and boutiques.  There are three parks within walking distance, two small ones with playgrounds, exercise stations and dog runs.  The Bosque de Chapultepec or Chapultepec park is less than a mile away.  It is one of the largest parks in the Western Hemisphere, 2.5 times larger than Central Park in NYC.  We have taken a few short exploratory runs with a lot of huffing and puffing due to the 7,350 feet of elevation.

A beautiful running path on Amsterdam.
img_0322 (1)
It’s a 1.2 mile oval loop between the roadway, very shaded and completely flat.
There are two of these traffic circles on the oval loop, known as glorieta in Mexico City.
An exercise station in Parque Espana.
Sculptures in Parque Mexico,
and this fountain.

img_0332The weather is a little cooler than expected due to fairly constant high thin cloud cover.  Temperatures are in the low 40’s in the morning going up to high 60’s in the afternoon.  Weather data for CDMX says no rain in January but we have had one heavy rainstorm.  We walked most of the Paseo de la Reforma which is a wide boulevard running diagonally across the heart of Mexico City.  It was patterned after the great boulevards of Europe and is home to many of Mexico’s tallest buildings and fanciest hotels including The Four Seasons where we checked out their bar and gift shops.

Paseo de la Reforma, wide streets and sidewalks and lots of greenery.
The first traffic circle, glorieta, features Diana the Huntress.
Another view down Paseo de la Reforma.
The second glorieta, the Angel of Independence.
The Angel of Independence is Mexico City’s favorite monument.
A humble little church amidst the skyscrapers.
Glorieta de la palma, the third circle with a lone palm tree.

Near the mid point of the Paseo de la Reforma we turned right going by the Palacio de Bellas Artes which is a dramatic marble performance hall and museum.

A monument commemorating Mexican president Benito Juarez.
Palacio de Bellas Artes.
Street sculpture across from the Palacio de Bellas Artes.
Entrance to China Town, they look the same the world over.
Many crowded pedestrian only streets in this area.

This district is Centro Historico and is much more crowded than our area of town and the streets are lined with shops selling gold and silver jewelry, fast food and all of the International store brands are represented.  We ended up at the Zócalo or main square which is the largest square in Latin America. img_5433It is surrounded by the Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral, The National Palace, Federal District buildings and the Old Portal de Mercaderes which is mostly shops and hotels.

The facade of the Cathedral.

We briefly toured the Cathedral and then had an early dinner at El Balcon Del Zócalo which was located on the fifth floor of a hotel with views out over the square.  We had a five course tasting menu with paired beverages preceded by our first Margarita in Mexico.  It was a very good meal and relatively inexpensive at $160, given all that we had. img_0359We then took our first Uber over three miles to home for under $5.00 with tip.  The following day we took a run to the large park Bosque de Chapultepec and explored the small but unique Botanical Gardens

Chapultepec Park entrance.
Succulent garden.
Bee sculptures made of vines.

after which we headed to Castillo de Chapultepec where a Mexican guide approached us and offered us an hour and a half tour for for MX$600.  We only had MX$400 so he gave us an hour tour instead.  Converting from MX$ to US$ involves moving the decimal point one space left and dividing by 2 so MX$400 is 20 US.  Entry to the palace is apparently free for the elderly.  The tour was very good and well worth the time and money as the palace is quite interesting and the guide provided us with a lot of Mexican history.

Castillo de Chapultepec.
A stunning and unique stairway.
Eye-catching tile floors which are not original.
Original furnishings, many of which came from Versailles.
A beautiful pristine garden on the rooftop.

img_0435img_0446The Palace is located on the highest spot in Mexico City providing beautiful views of the large surrounding park and also a view directly down the Main Street of the city, Paseo de la Reforma. img_0404img_0413We walked home having our main meal of the day at Jack’s House Tennessee ribs and burgers, as in Jack Daniels, consisting of ribs, onion rings and beer for $20. img_5332img_0500Our cheapest meal to date was directly across the street from our house at El Tizoncito which claims to be the originator of tacos al pastor which is a shawarma meat based taco  with onions, cilantro, pineapple, hot sauce and lime juice.  We had an appetizer, tacos and beer for under $15 and it was quite tasty.

Shawarma is meat roasted on an upright spit and shaved off with a knife.

We haven’t tried street food yet but plan on starting tomorrow.  So after one week in Mexico City, here are our initial impressions.  It is a much more cosmopolitan city than we expected, indeed much more cosmopolitan than any other European cities with the exception of London.  This city makes Rome,  Paris and all of Europe feel quite insular.  The diversity of restaurant cuisines available within a three block radius is unmatched and the availability of brands and goods from around the world is astounding.  The cleanliness of the city is another thing that has been very surprising.  The streets and sidewalks are kept cleanly swept and there are only occasional piles of trash.  The gardens and parks are also nearly pristine with well trimmed hedges and no accumulated dead debris.  The Mexican people are warm, friendly and helpful with no aggressive hawking of wares.  There are few homeless people sleeping on the streets and also very little begging.  The traffic moves quite gently at a slow to moderate pace with little honking of horns and cars and cycles give way to pedestrians very easily.  The overall pace of life just seems much slower and gentler than anywhere else we have been.  We can walk and run our neighborhood and surrounding areas without any fear of harm or injury from either people or traffic.  Overall we are very happy with our last minute choice to come here and with what we have found in our first week.  Given the size of this metropolitan area, reportedly the second largest in the world, and the diversity of things to do we will certainly never get bored.  We have friends coming to visit us seven out of our thirteen weeks here as this is an easy winter get-away with no jet lag since we are on Central Standard Time.  We still have some available space if someone would like to come visit.

Sep’s is an Alsatian restaurant just down the street from us.
First meal at home, grilled steak and baked sweet potato.
Interior of a small church two blocks away on our street.
CDMX at night from our balcony.
img_0478 (1)
Part of a long curving wall of murals in the Castillo de Chapultepec.

17 responses to “CDMX”

  1. Sandra Rowe & Joe Twichell Avatar
    Sandra Rowe & Joe Twichell

    It looks magnificent!! Please keeps those photos coming!

    1. It is magnificent. Just gets better and better. Learning so much about this country and the people.

  2. It’s an honor to be your host! I’m really glad your enjoying Mexico. Thanks for sharing this wonderful blog 🙂

    1. It has been our pleasure getting to know you.

  3. Victoria Kinnally Avatar
    Victoria Kinnally

    I must admit that I was surprised to hear you were going to Mexico. I would have been afraid to go myself: but, now that i see your pictures and read your blog, it sounds wonderful. You have enlightened me.

    1. We have enlightened ourselves also. It is absolutely lovely here.

      1. In my two trips to Mexico, the ONLY problem I ever encountered was getting back into the States, coming from Puerta Viarta to Houston………. The people of Mexico were lovely, over-the-top polite and helpful, and really lovely! Kinda un-nerving to see the “Policia” pulling cars over ( I was told it was to collect $ for “bribes from the locals” so close to the Resort in Tuluum. BUT I was assured they NEVER hassle the Tourista!
        If I had enough money to live there – by the beach 🙂 -, and NOT have to work for a year, I’d do it in a New York minute!!!!! xoxoxooxoxox Chan

  4. Looks amazing! Your own little altitude training camp for running. The BAA 5k will seem like child’s play after 3 months that high!

    1. We were just talking about that yesterday. We are hoping that will be the case! 🇲🇽😃🙏

  5. WOW! Looks like a perfect spot for you two! The history, the archetecture, the food, the wine!!! FABULOUS- and it looks beautifully clean…
    I was most fortunate to spend 3 weeks 9/2016 in LaCruz, a small yachting community just south of Buccerias and Puerta Villarta. A place I could live :)…… And then last year, I spent a week in Tuluum, MX, just South of Cancun, at a Yoga retreat. Equally spectacular, and a place I could easily live!
    Glad you two are having such a blast! Sorry the Spain extension didn’t work out, but my Daddy always said ” everything happens for a beautiful reason…”
    Have you been to Coastal Portugal????????? 🙂
    My love to you both!

    1. Yeah, we are really happy here.

  6. virginia gormley Avatar
    virginia gormley

    OMG so happy for you two love birds. LOVE travelling on your blog with you. And you both do not look a day over 40. What a wonderful retirement for you. Sending LOVE. Enjoy !! XO

    Sent from Mail for Windows 10


    1. Thanks, so glad that you are enjoying it.

  7. Jim and Sheila McArdle Avatar
    Jim and Sheila McArdle

    We loved this blog. Have never been to CDMX, so we are learning a lot. Your pix and narration are wonderful, keep them coming. Sorry we missed seeing you when you were in Melrose. Will catch you next time.
    Jim & Sheila

    1. We are so surprised at how much we love it and what a great city and people. We’ll try to see you in April.

  8. Who knew…I am shocked, haven’t been to Mexico City since the 70s. Looks beautiful!

    1. It’s terrific!!!🇲🇽🥂🍸👌👍🏼

Leave a Reply

%d bloggers like this: