We know the O’connors from our prior life in medicine. Neil and Audrey have visited us in Paris, Mexico CityMadrid, Kyoto, New Orleans, Amsterdam and now Copenhagen. Our time with them is notable for the most laughs, the most miles of daily walking and the most money spent on food and women’s clothing and accessories. They always plan new and interesting things for us to do which makes them always welcome to come and visit us at any of our destinations.
We met Neil and Audrey at the Christianshavn Metro station. They took the Metro from the airport and we took the bus from home. We arrived at our meeting place at the very same time at 7:30am. They flew overnight from Boston and arrived just before 7:00. We wasted no time in sampling danish pastries at Lagkaghuset that is renamed Ole and Steen in the UK. We are most familiar with the ones in London and love their cinnamon rolls.We walked them about 2 miles back to our apartment through Christiania which we have talked about in previous blogs.This neighborhood aka as Freetown is a partially governed, autonomous community consisting of aging hippies who are mostly artisans and musicians.We kept them moving to avoid jet lag and boarded a water bus for lunch at Hija de Sanchez Mexican Restaurant in Nordhavn which the ex pastry chef Rosio Sanchez from Noma restaurant opened. It was pricey but enjoyable and another Bear Series TV check list. We toasted their arrival with afternoon margaritas. Scenes of various and interesting architecture during our walk to Rosenborg Castle.We followed a path along this canal.This was a Caviar, Champagne and Tequila shop called Premium Bottles that had Tequila in an anatomically correct heart-shaped bottle with the aorta atrium and ventricles. Sandy and Audrey of course wanted to buy them but were voted down by the men. The Dutch Renaissance Rosenborg Castle was built 1606-34 by Christian IV as a country summer house. It was used as a royal residence until 1710. After the reign of Frederick IV it was used only twice as a residence, and both times were during emergencies. The first time was after Christiansborg Palace burned down in 1794 and the second time during the British attack on Copenhagen in 1801. Sandy toured the Palace with other guests when we first arrived so they opted not to do it and we just enjoyed walking through the beautiful King’s Gardens, which is the country’s oldest royal garden. Today they serve as a popular retreat for the people of Copenhagen to picnic and play games or just lie on a blanket in the grass.Hans Christian Andersen Statue in the garden.
We captured an Egret catching his lunch in this short video.Passed these colored houses (not Nyhavn) on our way to the Round Tower.While they climbed the Round Tower we waited in the bar at the 25 Hours Hotel which is very funky and has an unusual vending machine in the lobby.See anything you like?🫣One of the “must eat places” recommended by their daughter Kelly was Poulette a tiny hot spot take out restaurant that specializes in frying up a mouthwatering spicy fried chicken sandwich and French fries. It was another place associated with the series The Bear as it was a favorite place to eat for the director of the show and he incorporated it into the “Honeydew Episode” of the show.We were lucky to get the last few sandwitches before they sold out. We did not get the French fries as the fryer for that was broken. There are no tables to sit at outside but we found a lovely park bench nearby where we ate and drank the wine we bought head of time.Here we are enjoying our chicken sandwiches.Second morning’s adventure was to kayak the canals.We opted for the double ocean kayaks where you sit on top instead of in a well. They are much more stable.Neil and Audrey really enjoyed the tower climb of the Marble Church.Selma is a sweet neighborhood restaurant.Lunch speciality was a smorrebrod (open faced sandwich) with homemade rye and sourdough bases. Neil and Audrey treated us to the multi-course tasting menu. It was delicious.Another adventure planned by Audrey was to take a one hour train ride to Helsingør to visit Kronborg Castle aka “Hamlet’s Castle” because Shakespeare used it for the setting of Hamlet. There is no evidence that Shakespeare ever visited Kronborg but he certainly knew it well.It was a misty cloudy day, perfect for an excursion out of Copenhagen.Outer moat surrounding the castle.Military Barracks of the Castle.Immortalized as Elsinore in Shakespear’s Hamlet it is one of the most important Renaissance castles in Northern Europe and now a UNESCO World Heritage site.While waiting for our Hamlet Tour to start we did a short climb up the Cannon Tower to enjoy views reaching as far as Sweden.This Castle was primarily a royal residence for King Frederick II and Queen Sophie in the late 16th century.Audrey gifted us with a book to read (Shakespeare made Easy) that has the scenes of Hamlet with the Elizabethan wording on the left page and a translated easy to read English version on the right page. This made it easier to read and understand the story. We were instructed to finish the book before this visit to better appreciate the Castle. 🫡 We read most of it but then Audrey summarized it by saying “everyone dies in the end”.🥲😞King Christian IV also left his mark on the Castle with grand parties. From 1739 until 1900’s Kronborg was used as a prison. Soldiers living in the castle guarded the prisoners. After 1700 Kronborg was used less as a royal residence and more as military barracks until 1923.This is Holger the Dane (protector of Denmark). He is a sleeping giant who rests in the casemates which is the underground of the castle. According to legend this mighty warrior will awaken when Denmark is under attack. Until then he remains peacefully asleep.Our Hamlet’s tour guide explaining the King’s Sound Tolls which was a toll on the use of the Oresund, or Sound. Ships passing through the narrow strait connecting the Baltic Sea to the North Sea were required to pay a toll to the King making him very rich.The Lutheran castle church of Kronborg was inaugurated in 1582 and was not affected by the fire in 1629 which is why the richly carved and colorfully painted furnishings have been preserved.The Organ has survived in a completely authentic form. It is in fact a unique example of its time and therefore a gem in Danish Organ building.A window with a view.In European stores we are endlessly searching for the perfect bag while we are not looking for the perfect scarf. The savings with the VAT tax return can be a real “bargain”.We spent a lovely afternoon walking around the gardens of Tivoli but did not purchase ride tickets and just enjoyed watching people scream on some death defying amusement rides.
Would you ride the Daemonen? Check out this video.Tivoli Gardens is really beautiful with lovely landscaping.Villa Vendetta is the haunted house of Tivoli where a forgotten family’s madmen await their revenge. It has real actors and is said to be spine chilling. Do you recognize the madmen in this photo?
Unusually colored peacock roams the gardens of Tivoli.Audrey loves ice cream and does taste tests all over the world.We mostly walked everywhere but also took the local bus and water bus. Sandy bought Audrey the tote bag she is holding. It reads “just let me shop and no one gets hurt”.We took the train from Copenhagen to Stockholm for an overnight get away. It was a five hour ride but well worth it and we packed a lot of sightseeing into the short time we were there.Stockholm Harbor.Swedish Palace royal guard. This Palace is the official residence of the Swedish monarch. It is a large Baroque palace with influences of French and Italian.We were all very impressed with the architecture of Stockholm which is a rich mix of historical and modern styles. The city features buildings from the 13th century onward, including medieval structures in Gamla Stan (Old Town).This was our Hotel which was very nice and perfectly located.We of course had to see the Abba Museum which is an interactive museum about the Swedish super troupers who stormed the pop world between 1972-1983. Once inside you can sing and dance with holograms of ABBA, don a digital costume projected onto you in a special booth or sing on stage like you are the fifth band member.The museum showcases the band’s original stage clothes, artifacts, concert footage, interviews and more. It was so jam packed with people that Jim left within the first minutes of going in but Sandy, Audrey and Neil enjoyed it.Mama Mia here we go again…..After ABBA we continued on to the Vasa Museum which tells the story of a 69 meter-long warship that sank on its maiden voyage in Stockholm harbor in 1628 and was salvaged 333 years later in 1961. The ship sank due to its inherent instability, caused by a top heavy design and insufficent ballast when a strong gust of wind keeled it over. The Vasa did not even make it one mile from port. Of the 150 people on board 30 died.For nearly half a century the ship has been slowly, deliberately and painstakingly restored to a state approaching its original glory.Nordic Museum which we did not visit.It was very hot and we came across the Royal dramatic Theater which had a terrace bar.We snagged a seat under an umbrella which was good as it started to rain.Another “must” was this restaurant which is family owned. The menu features classic dishes such as Swedish meatballs which Sandy wanted and Pork cheeks braised in red wine that Audrey said was the best meal she had in Stockholm. They do not take reservations so we waited for an hour standing in a long line outside for one of their 26 table seats which comes to about 8 tables. they also have four seats at the bar which they offered us and we gratefully accepted. It was great fun sitting at the bar and chatting up the friendly bartender.We took a tour boat which took us by a few of the islands in the massive Swedish archipelago on its way to the Royal Summer Palace. The ride to the palace was very crowded but everyone else got off to tour the palace leaving us alone on the return trip to Stockholm harbor.We had the entire back of the boat to ourselves.It was a really hot day so it was nice to be on the water with a lovely breeze.Electric Public transport bus on the harbor. We found out later that we could have taken this instead of the tour boat. It would have been much faster and free as Jim had bought a 24 hour ticket for public transport the day before.Stockholm City Hall where they have the Nobel Prize dinner. Unfortunately the tower climb was fully booked.Beautiful spire gracing the Stockholm skyline.Stockholm Opera House.Stockholm Harbor where our hotel was located in Gamla Stan.One of our last stops before heading back to Copenhagen was the Nobel Prize Museum. The work of the Nobel laureates in natural science, literature, medicine, peace and economics come to life here. The Special Exhibit when we went was “Fighting Disease-Three Stories from the Fields Of Medicine” where you meet a scientist a doctor and a nurse who continue the journey from scientific discovery to better health for the world’s population. It was the perfect exhibit for us, three doctors and a nurse.Looks like St. Michael slaying the dragon.Neil and Audrey brought a cool game called Train that we played on the train heading back to Copenhagen. Oh and there was a bit of wine imbibing as well.Hart Bakery favorite cardamom croissant.Back in Copenhagen we planned a day that started with a water bus to see the Little Mermaid Statue made famous by a Hans Christian Andersen Children’s Fairy Tale.They are not Museum fans but their daughter Kelly thought they would like the Design Museum so we popped in for a very quick walk through.They are avid bikers and take many bike tours all over the world often joining their daughter Kelly.We did a lovely tour of Christianborg PalaceDanish Royal family is so loved by the people receiving approval ratings between 82-92%. In Jan 2024 Queen Margarethe II abdicated making her elder son and successor the new King Frederick X (age 57) . King Frederick is married to Queen Mary (age 53) who is from Tasmania. They have four children; Crown Prince Christian (age 20), Princess Isabella (age 18) and twins Prince Vincent and Princess Josephine (ages 14). The King is especially liked and respected due to his impressive accomplishments. He studied political science at Harvard University. He also completed frogman training with the Royal Danish Navy and has been appointed to the highest military rank in the Army and Navy. He participated in a four- month 2,795 km dog-sled race in Greenland to mark the 50th anniversary of the Danish military Sirius Dog Sled Patrol.Once home to kings and queens the palace now houses the Royal Reception Rooms as well as Danish Parliament, the Supreme Court and Ministry of State.We did a tour of the Royal Reception Rooms. The Great Hall is the most impressive room where you find HRH Queen Margrethe II’s tapestries.On the ocasion of the Queen’s 60th birthday in 2000 a gift of 17 tapestries depicting 1,100 years of Danish history were unveiled and presented to her. Bjorn Norgaard was commissioned to paint the full size sketches upon which the tapestries were woven. It took ten years to complete them. The idea for them grew out of a desire for contemporary artwork to adorn the hall.This tapestry depicts events and figures of the 20th century. At a closer look at the bottom of the tapestry are faces of famous people. JFK is in the middle. Enlarge it and see who else you can identify. Can you find a sinking Titanic and an astronaut commemorating the landing on the moon?This tapestry entitled “The Present” depicts Queen Margarethe standing in what appears to be the Garden of Eden offering the Prince Consort Henrik an apple. Her long slender arms symbolizes a regent who could embrace anyone in Denmark. Her large hands symbolize power. It is rumored the Queen was not entirely pleased with her likeness and remarked that at least her dog was a good likeness.On the faux painting on the wall the Queen’s face also appears. Enlarge the red circle to see it more clearly. Throne Room.Looking down from the Royal Balcony over the plaza in front of the palace. Neil chose the restaurant Surt (meaning sour) for sour dough pizza which was delicious and so good that we were too busy eating to take photos 🤷♀️. It is in the Vesterbro neighborhood which is now the hippest area in Copenhagen and was very interesting. Vesterbro translates to Western Bridge and refers to the paved road leading into the city through the Western Gate.It is also home to The Carlsberg Brewery founded in 1847 by J.C. Jacobsen who named the beer after his son Carl. Here Neil is pointing to a bust of Louis Pasteur on Pasteur Street.The Elephant Gates were built as an entrance to the brewery. It got its name from the four enormous granite elephants that carry the tower on their backs and symbolizes the four surviving children of Carl (son of founder J. C. Carlsberg) and Ottilia Jacobsen.Peek a boo For our last meal (yes with their visits it is all about the food) they chose Host which is a Michelin Guide recommended restaurant for their “good cooking” and good value. It is known for its Nordic-inspired tasting menu with surprise dishes and its unique interior design. We sat at a lovely table in the window and ordered off of the A la Carte Menu.And so they bid us hej hej (pronounced hi hi) Danish for goodbye. Hello in Danish is hej (pronounced hi). Thank you Neil and Audrey. We always enjoy your visits and the extra pounds on our bodies that you treat us to despite the many miles we walk with you.
As usual our time with them was a whirlwind with lots of shopping, walking, eating, touring, shopping and eating. What could be better than that.
This is a top blog of the four of you, great pictures of all enjoying a bon viveur time and still maintaining perfect physiques by being super active – amazed and full of admiration, Sigi and Paul xx
What an incredible view of your current world! Neil and Audrey look like the PERFECT couple to experience this with you! SO glad you guys are Living the Dream!!!!! xoxoxoxoxoxoxoxoxoxoxo Chanda
Leave a Reply