Since Jim planned this whole trip, Islay (pronounced eyelah or Ālah) was the anchor around which everything else was arranged. Back in his Scotch drinking days he fell in love with Lagavullin 16 which is a peat monster of a whisky. Islay is home to nine distilleries which all specialize in the peaty smokey whiskeys. Jim found a recommended guest house which serves breakfast and a few dinners. There were only a few three night openings back in February which he booked and then planned the rest of the trip around that. Other than whisky distilleries there is not a lot to do on this island.
Boarding the ferry to Islay at 06:35. We were pleasantly surprised at the comfort level on the ferry with great spaces to sit and overlook the passing landscape through nice big windows. The ferry crossing to Islay took two and a half hours. There was also a cafeteria available on the vessel.We so enjoyed sitting in font of the window in the ferry lounge as we worked on our morning New York Times crossword puzzle.Our drinking adventure on Islay begins.We were unable to get our Avis rental car on the ferry and had to rent another one on this side. They refused to rent manual transmission cars to Americans or Canadians assuming they had enough to handle driving on the left without also having to shift gears with their left hand. Jim was disappointed to be forced to drive an automatic transmission.Our ferry arrived in Port Ellen which is the main gateway to the Isle of Islay. Since we couldn’t check in to our guest house until two we took a tour of this end of the island.
Hop in and join us on this video car tour to see our first sights of Islay.Cemetery where all the tombstones are facing the water.The unusual square shaped Carriag Fhada Lighthouse is at the western entrance to the bay and was erected in 1832.This very large cow stared us down.The American Monument is a memorial to the hundreds of American servicemen who lost their lives in two shipwrecks off Islay in 1918. We drove 30 minutes on terrible roads to the parking lot for this monument and then declined the long walk in mud, rain, wind and cold to actually see it.Fairy Hill Cottage. Fairies are a significant part of Scottish folklore. Sith (pronounced shee) is the Gaelic term for fairies who can be peaceful or malevolent. Stories from the Highlands and Isles tell of fairies living underground in fairy mounds interacting with humans. We had a fairy garden outside our front door at 87 Beacon Street. 🧚‍♂️The stone in front of the bench that our fairy sat on has the inscription “Don’t mess with the Fairies”. The fairy was actually stolen once and Sandy found it in another garden further down on Beacon Street where she promptly hopped the garden fence and retrieved it. We glued her to the bench and bought the paving stone as a warning to future thieves. The Kildalton Cross was carved in the 700’s and is every inch the equal of the great high crosses in Iona. It’s still standing where it was first erected 1,200 years ago making it one of very few early Christian crosses in their original positions and one of the best preserved in all of Scotland.We made a donation to continue the upkeep.This cross is called the Thief’s cross as it is outside the consecrated ground of the churchyard and the story is that it is the grave of a criminal.Can you see Jim peeking through at Sandy as she takes this photo. We feel there is something magical about walking through ruins and stepping back in time. Have you ever wondered about what your life would have been like if you were born many years ago? Do you also wonder if someday another generation will do the same about you as they wander through your ancient environments ?After leaving the cemetery we encountered these young pheasants on the road that we had to follow until they decided to move off to the side.Scotland has more sheep than people, with around 6.6 million sheep to 5.5 million people. Scotland’s rugged terrain is perfect for raising livestock, making sheep farming a central part of rural life.This is Glenegdale House which Jim booked back in February. The two houses on the left are self-catering cottages.This is the main house with four rooms, various sitting rooms and the dining room.Two of the sitting rooms which we never used.Welcome of coffee and cake on arrival at 2pm. We met here at 6pm for cocktails, every seat was full and the room was cacophonous with all of the visiting. It was only busy on the first night. We met a lovely couple from San Diego, Betty and Ralph. Betty introduced us to Bruichladdich Distillery that has the scotch Octomore that Jim has been trying to find for 9 years. Sandy also enjoyed a lovely evening of drinks and conversation with them in this room when Jim went to bed early with a bad cold. Our bedroom with ensuite bath.Great tartan bedding and drapes.View from our bedroom window. In the distance beyond the grass is a commercial airport runway that runs along the North Atlantic Ocean.The Inn had a very elegant dining room. Breakfast was included but not the evening meal. The food was delicious but enormous servings that we felt bad about not eating. The hosts reassured us not to worry as they give remaining food to their livestock.One of our hosts Emma who with her husband Graeme maintain this lovely Inn.Seafood platter which consisted of fish caught that morning by local fishermen who they identify by name upon presenting the platter to the table. (We did not get this as it is too much food for us) but a fellow diner at the next table let us photograph their meal.Private dinning room of the Inn was set up for a group of Orthodontists who were having a reunion together many years after meeting as students at Glasgow University. We enjoyed meeting them at the cocktail hour on our first night.Our first distillery tour was here at Ardberg on the first day. All tours needed to be booked weeks in advance.Massive copper distiller greets you at the entrance.Well marked entrance.Our tour guide Kenny was very thorough with his explanation about the process of whiskey production.Ardbeg distillery is an Islay single malt Scotch whiskey distillery in Ardbeg on the South coast of the Isle of Islay, Argyll and Bute, Scotland. It is owned by Louis Vuitton, Moet, Hennessy known as LVMH. It produces a very nice heavily peated whiskey.The following morning Jim did another whiskey tour alone as there was only one slot left when he booked it. Sandy stayed back at the Inn. She felt one tour was all she needed and it is hard to think about drinking whiskey at 10 am. Since Jim was driving the distillery could not allow him to drink so he got goody bags of all the samples to go. Who would have thought the Scots would be so responsible about drinking.🤷‍♂️This is the malt floor where the barley malt is dried after its initial washing. Most malt for Islay is imported from mainland Scotland.This is what gives Islay whisky its distinctive smokey, peaty taste. That is peat being burned and the white smoke goes up through the drying barley.Much to Sandy’s delight some of the heather is still in bloom but now late in the season it is mostly brown in the moors. Scottish heather carries meanings of good luck and protection. White heather which is rare is a symbol of wishes coming true. Purple heather symbolizes dignity, resilience, and the deep connection between people and their land. The plant also represents the strength and spirit of Scotland.Our last booked whiskey tour was Lagavulin Distillery which is nestled near the historic Dunyvaig Castle on the south coast of Islay. It is among Scotland’s oldest. Aside from the whiskey it also offers stunning views of Lagavulin Bay.Lagagvulin BayOur guide was Calum Campbell. He had us sample four different whiskeys, three of which came directly from the casks.Calum comes from a long line of family members involved in the whiskey business who are all mostly employed by different distilleries. He said there is no rivalry among the various distilleries. We thought he reminded us and looked similar to our grandson Jack who is our favorite bartender in Newport Rhode Island. See Jack’s photo below. What do you think? Jack and his parents will be joining us for our last week in Scotland. Who knows Jack may stay behind and follow in Calum’s footsteps.We leave you with our last photos taken on lovely Islay before boarding the ferry to our next destination, Oban so don’t go away as there is more of Scotland to come from our two months here.Islay Golf Course.Mar sin leibh Islay. Your island and your whiskey did not disappoint.
There are around 150 whisky distilleries in Scotland and we have visited five so far counting visits in 2016. We have also visited a whiskey distillery in Kentucky so we have no need do any more distillery tours. We will continue to do tastings but not tours. Notice the spelling difference between whisky in Scotland and whiskey in the US and Canada.
Sondra, just read your blog about Islay. Thank you for mentioning Ralph and I, we so enjoyed meeting you and spending time talking and laughing! Obviously, you are having such a great time. We are home now and have to say, it was a wonderful trip. We went up to Speyside for yes, more tastings(!), and then worked our way to St Andrew’s, Glamis Castle (personal favorite), Sterling Castle, back to Glasgow then London for a few nights. London was fun to visit again and the weather was amazing. Take care and keep the stories coming!
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